Chippewa Creek, Ohio (OH)

Location

Chippewa Creek, Ohio
United States
41° 19' 9.84" N, 81° 37' 1.92" W
US

 

** LEGAL NOTICE **

Pursuant to the June 18, 2015 Policy of the Board of Park Commissioners of the Cleveland Metropolitan Park District, swimming is prohibited at Chippewa Creek Gorge due to elements that pose unsafe hazards and conditions. Furthermore, swimming at Chippewa Creek Gorge is illegal pursuant to Cleveland Metropolitan Park District’s Regulation Section 543.02(a). Whoever violates this section shall be fined not more than one hundred fifty dollars ($150.00) for the first offense and not more than one thousand dollars ($1,000) for each subsequent offense.

** END LEGAL NOTICE **

Colonel John Breck and several partners purchased the land now known as Brecksville in 1807.  This location became a very populous area in Ohio though settlement came to a halt as other cities such as Cleveland and Detroit expanded. Outside of town in a secluded location is Chippewa Creek, a set of boulder problems with a range of difficulty.  Climbing here is debated - Cleveland Metroparks sent us a note saying that it is not safe and referenced the above legal statement. 

Climbing Routes

River Below Fight or Flight- V2-V6 This locale has three boulder problems that are on two sides of a boulder in the river and they have dry landings.

  • Left Handed Whore- V2 A fun warm up with nice flat edges.
  • Raining in Bleautimore- V3 Big pulls and nice slopers define this problem with several variations.
  • Thin to Win- V6 Lots of tiny crimps and a great top out make up this stellar problem.
  • Spider Pocket- V3 This problem has a rough landing, be sure to bring your crash pad.

Pinch Arete- V4

  • Pinch Arete- V4 Make this problem a little harder by eliminating intermediate moves and watch your ankles in the cracks.
  • LIMee Hole- V3 Low side pulls and pinches will get you through this problem.

Downstream- V3-V9 A nice set of four boulder problems.

  • Thugged Out Since Cub Scouts- V4 Take the start easy, sit or stand, and throw in a nice little dyno for the top out.
  • Feets of Contortion- V3 This problem has a slabby top out with low jugs with a good start. 
  • Plans to Commit Arson- V9 Bring an extra crash pad along for this one.  You will need to use a lot of upper body strength a may get a little tired after repeated attempts as solving this superstar problem. 
  • The Perfect Sunday- V5 Watch out for the sharp rock! 

Block Head- V0 This rock is only climbable when it is dry.

  • Left Arete- V0 Great warm up with long top out moves.

Midstream- V4-V11 The best location for bouldering at Chippewa Creek.

  • Blood Gnome- V8 You will think you have got it made until you hit the last move.
  • The Racist Arete- V7 Boulderers say this is an amazing problem with a great view from the top out.
  • The Gem- V11 This fantastic problem has some big jugs and great slopers, but has often been washed out.  Try to visit this location in the summer time. 
  • Immortal Techniques- V6 Climbers warn that you must fight the barn door hard. 
  • Cave Man- V8 This one may be harder than it looks, and the start is where you may end. 
  • Boo ya Arete- V4 A very nice beginner problem.

Sauna Boulder- V4 Called the Sauna Boulder because it always seems to be the warmest boulder in the bunch.

  • Right Sauna- V4 An obvious rail will get you started here.
  • Left Sauna- V4 This problem has some nice crimps and is a very simple climb.

Amenities
American Wilderness Campground (about 30 minutes away)
17273 Avon Belden Rd (Rt. 83)
Grafton, OH 44044
Phone- 440-926-3700
http://www.americanwildernesscampground.com

Directions
When heading east take Route 82 (aka Royalton Rd) past the two shopping centers.  There should be a Heinen's on the left and a Giant Eagle on the left.  The entrance to the park (on the right) will be a mere 50 yards from those shopping plaza entrances.  Enter there and park at the first parking lot right off the road.  There will be a hiking path to your right.  Follow that until you get to a gazebo and go left.  Stay on the path until you come to a pair of tight skinny trees on the left(I know it sounds generic but you will know when you see it) Jump the little fence and the boulders will be down in the gully right on Chippewa Creek. 

GPS: 
Latitude: 41.3194
Longitude: -81.6172

Comments

Pursuant to the June 18, 2015 Policy of the Board of Park Commissioners of the Cleveland Metropolitan Park District, swimming is prohibited at Chippewa Creek Gorge due to elements that pose unsafe hazards and conditions. Furthermore, swimming at Chippewa Creek Gorge is illegal pursuant to Cleveland Metropolitan Park District’s Regulation Section 543.02(a). Whoever violates this section shall be fined not more than one hundred fifty dollars ($150.00) for the first offense and not more than one thousand dollars ($1,000) for each subsequent offense.