Devil's Lake, Wisconsin (WI)

Location

Devil's Lake, Wisconsin
United States
43° 24' 37.08" N, 89° 42' 54" W
US

Devil's Lake was originally a gorge of the Wisconsin River prior to the last ice age. At what is now the southern end of the lake, the river turned from a southerly direction to an easterly flow. During the ice age, a lobe of the glacier passed to the east of the Baraboo Hills and came up the river valley. It deposited materials and then melted, leaving a terminal moraine blocking the river, forming an earthen dam. Another moraine was deposited at the north end of the lake. The river eventually found a new course to the east of the Baraboo Hills, where the glacier had been, leaving a portion of the river gorge between the moraines filled with water. This body of water is Devil's Lake.  Devils Lake Rock Climbing is composed of six areas of climbing options.

Climbing Routes

Aladdin’s Castle- Located in the Near East, this outcropping holds a variety of climbs ranging from 5.4 to 5.10b, with most climbs 45 to 55 feet tall.

  • Three wishes #2-  5.10c
  • Three wishes #3-  5.5
  • Unamed #3-  5.6
  • Second Wish-  5.7
  • Flying Carpet-  5.7
  • Unamed- 5.4
  • Shazam- 5.8
  • The Lamp- 5.5
  • Unamed #2- 5.7
  • First, make a wish- 5.8
  • Three wishes #1 - 5.6
  • Genie- 5.10a
  • First Wish (Variation 1)-  5.10b
  • First Wish (Variation 2)-  5.10d
  • Third Wish (twin climbs)-  5.6

Devil’s Lake Bouldering- The bouldering scene up at the Lake is constantly growing, and there's so much more out there waiting for the first ascent.

Balanced Rock Area

  • Airball - V3
  • Balanced Rock - V0
  • Bolbous Left Center - V8
  • Bulbous Left - V5
  • Crimp Overhang - V5
  • Groth Arete - V3
  • Hairball - V3
  • Lou Reed Arete - V3
  • Lou Reed Crack - V2
  • Lou Reed Lunge - V4
  • Pony Ride - V2
  • Schlick Move - V3
  • Slopers - V3
  • Startup - V2
  • Three Step - V3
  • Two Step - V2
  • Warmup - V0
  • Wedding Day - V1
  • Wednesday Nighter - V1
  • West Face - V0

Burma Boulders

  • Dyno - V2
  • Highball slab - V2
  • Pinball Arete - V5
  • Pocket Problem - V1
  • Thin Arete - V1
  • Voodoo Center - V2
  • Voodoo eliminates - V5
  • Voodoo Left - V2
  • Voodoo Right - V1
  • Warmup - V0

East Bluffs

  • Arete - V1
  • Beer Buzz - V2
  • Crab - V2
  • Crack V2 - V2
  • Errol Morris - V5
  • Face V0 - V0
  • Face V0 (II) - V0
  • Face V0 (III) - V0
  • Face V5 - V5
  • Flatiron - V4
  • Highball - V4
  • Little Overhang - V0
  • Martini Madness - V4
  • PO Box 11 - V2
  • Saddle Sores - V2
  • Straight Shot - V9
  • The Captain's.. - V8
  • Wagener Arete - V1
  • Zipper - V8

Jigga Beautiful Soup Boulders

  • Alpine Club - V9
  • Anchorpoint - V7
  • Beautiful Soup - V8
  • Hogleg Arete - V4
  • Hogleg Overhang - V5
  • Intercourse Arete - V3
  • Keymaker - V11
  • Left of Alpine - V3
  • Slab - V2
  • Warmup Slab - V0

 

Monolith Area

  • Arete - V1
  • Arrow Right - V1
  • Axiom of Arete.. - V7
  • Barkbiter - V4
  • Broken Pottery left - V3
  • Broken Pottery - V3
  • Crack of Minmal.. - V3
  • Love Boat Muffin - V1
  • Manhattan - V1
  • Perfect Medium - V9
  • Pillar of Contemporary Movement - V4
  • Sex and Chocolate - V7
  • Shawn's Slab - V0
  • Slope of Dadaism - V3
  • Spotted Cow Left - V3
  • Thunderbird Bulge - V3
  • Unknown (1) - V0
  • Venus Rising - V7

North Shore Area

  • All Naturals Off - V1
  • Arete - V2
  • Big Bud Arete - V2
  • Crack 1 - V0
  • Crack 2 - V0
  • Earth Mechanics - V5
  • Emily's Naptime - V1
  • Face - V1
  • Face 2 - V1
  • Face 3 - V2
  • Face 4 - V0
  • Face 5 - V0
  • Face 6 - V0
  • Horseshoes & Handgrenades - V2
  • Jameison Arete - V3
  • Little Lia - V2
  • Minnie Me - V1
  • Redhair Arete - V3
  • Reef On This - V2
  • Show me the kind - V4
  • Special-K - V0
  • The Giese Dome - V2
  • The Power - V0
  • Welcome to the Lake - V4

The Ejaculator Boulder

  • Ejaculator Center - V9
  • Ejaculator Left - V5
  • Ejaculator Right - V2
  • Pussy Whipped - V7

The Greatest Bluff

  • Arete - V0
  • Finger Crack - V2
  • Green Seam - V5
  • Too High - V2

Tombstone

  • Arete V0 - V0
  • Captone - V2
  • Classic Tombstone - V2
  • Footstone - V2
  • Headstone - V4
  • Left Crack - V0
  • Right Crack - V0
  • Thin Crack - V0
  • Tombstone Direct - V5
  • Tower Traverse - V2

West Bluff

  • 45 degree center - V5
  • 45 degree left - V4
  • 45 degree right - V4

East Bluff - The East Bluff is the largest and most popular bluff surrounding Devil's Lake.

Balanced Rock Wall

  • Aargh! - 5.9
  • Basswood Chimney - 5.3
  • Fear and Trembling - 5.9
  • Fear and Trembling.. - 5.10d
  • Grandma's Staircase - 5.6
  • Mr. Neutron - 5.6
  • New Box - 5.4
  • Red Pulpit - 5.6
  • Sunken Pillar - 5.5
  • Watermarks - 5.8
  • Watermarks Direct - 5.10b

Bedroom Amphitheatre

  • Cerebration - 5.4
  • Foreplay - 5.6
  • Orgasm - 5.8
  • Orgasm Direct - 5.11b

Bill’s Buttress

  • P*ssy Cat - 5.11a
  • Agnostic - 5.7
  • Breakfast of.. - 5.8
  • Cheatah - 5.10b
  • Coatimundi Crack - 5.6
  • Escalation - 5.6
  • Push-Mi Pull-Yu - 5.6
  • The Dark Corner - 5.4

Birthday Rocks

  • Birthday Chimney - 5.3
  • Birthday Crack - 5.7
  • Bowing to the.. - 5.12a
  • Ceasarian Tower - 5.8
  • Great White Hope - 5.11a
  • Special Delivery - 5.6
  • The Twins (left) - 5.7
  • The Twins (right) - 5.7

Box Canyon

  • Balance Climb - 5.7
  • Hitch Hike - 5.4
  • The Gargoyle - 5.4
  • Unnamed - 5.4
  • Whamus - 5.4

Brinton’s Buttress

  • Berkeley - 5.6
  • Brinton's Corner - 5.10a
  • Brinton's Crack - 5.6
  • Brinton's Direct - 5.8
  • Brittons Crack - 5.6
  • Chicago - 5.8
  • Evanston Township - 5.10b
  • Evanston Township - 5.11b

D’arcys Buttress

  • 30 Second Crack - 5.3
  • Batman - 5.12a
  • Birch Tree Crack - 5.8
  • Blow Up - 5.10b
  • Cemetery Wall - 5.6
  • Chimney's End - 5.4
  • D'arcy's Wall - 5.8
  • Darkness at Noon - 5.3
  • Death Leap 2000 - 5.10b
  • Dislexia - 5.13c
  • Easy Overhang - 5.4
  • End of the End - 5.10b
  • Last Gasp - 5.8
  • Left of Zig-Zag - 5.9
  • Lower Diagonal - 5.8
  • Pete's Lament - 5.12b
  • Ship's Row - 5.6
  • Sometime Crack - 5.10a
  • Sometime Direct - 5.10d
  • Sometime Left - 5.11d
  • Strawberry Fields - 5.9
  • Stretcher - 5.9
  • The Beginning - 5.7
  • The End - 5.10a
  • Upper Diagonal - 5.8
  • Welfare Line - 5.12b
  • Zig-Zag - 5.5

Doorway Rocks Major Mass

  • Dippy Diagonal - 5.8
  • Split Decision - 5.7
  • The Jolly Roger - 5.8

East of Balance Rock Wall

  • Bear Hug - 5.11c
  • Kranz - 5.6
  • Leiderkranz - 5.9
  • The Effie - 5.7
  • The Slab - 5.4
  • Where Is The Beer - 5.10d

Gill’s Buttress

  • Acid Rock - 5.12a
  • Boyscout - 5.3
  • Fantasy - 5.9
  • Gill's Cheek - 5.12a
  • Gill's Crack - 5.10b
  • Gill's Nose - 5.11b
  • Ice - 5.13b
  • In Search Of The.. - 5.12b
  • Peyote Blues - 5.12b
  • Slut For Punishment - 5.12a
  • The Spine - 5.6
  • Unknown - 5.10a
  • Weasels - 5.12a

Guillotine Wall

  • 1) Beginner's Chimney - 5.3
  • 2) Beginner's Nose - 5.3
  • 3) Beginner's Face - 5.4
  • Annie's Overhang - 5.7
  • Broken Boulders - 5.3
  • Labor Pains - 5.10b
  • Levitation - 5.5
  • Levitation, Right.. - 5.6
  • Poison Ivy - 5.4
  • The Layback - 5.4
  • The Little Thing - 5.3

Hawk’s Nest

  • Alpha Centauri - 5.10d
  • Bucket Brigade - 5.6
  • Happy Hunting.. - 5.11a
  • R. Exam - 5.9
  • Vivisection - 5.11a

Hole-In- The-Wall

  • Don't Lean On The.. - 5.8
  • Hole-In-The-Wall - 5.6
  • Left Arm - 5.10a
  • Rodin's Inspiration - 5.7
  • Surprise - 5.8
  • The White Cloud - 5.8

Horse Rampart

  • Archery - 5.8
  • Debauchery - 5.8
  • Debauchery 2 - 5.8
  • Debauchery 3 - 5.11d
  • Lechery - 5.8
  • Monarch - 5.9
  • Plethora - 5.11a
  • Primak's Surprise - 5.7
  • Ptolemy - 5.10d
  • Roger's Roof - 5.8
  • The Horse - 5.4
  • Treachery - 5.7
  • Un-named - 5.7
  • Unknown - 5.5
  • Via Apia - 5.7
  • Wogers Woof - 5.11c

Leaning Tower

  • Cosmic Cringe - 5.11b
  • East Face - 5.7
  • North Face - 5.11a

Many Pines Buttress

  • Black Rib - 5.11a
  • Broken Laddes - 5.7
  • Callipigeanous - 5.10a
  • Flatus - 5.11b
  • Flatus Direct - 5.11d
  • Flatus Triple - 5.11d
  • Kama-Kazi - 5.8
  • Man and Superman - 5.10d
  • Michael's Project - 5.7
  • Ostentation - 5.10a
  • Peter's Project - 5.7
  • Peter's Project 2 - 5.9

Moldy Buttress

  • Cul-de-sac - 5.8
  • Eleven-minus - 5.10d
  • Horticulture - 5.4
  • Jamboree - 5.6
  • Lichen - 5.3
  • Nine-minus - 5.8
  • Sewing Machine - 5.6
  • Ten-minus - 5.10a
  • Tibia Crack - 5.8

Pedestal Buttress

  • Upper Diagonal - 5.9
  • All The Way - 5.12b
  • Angle of Dangle - 5.12a
  • Assume The Position - 5.12b
  • Birch Tree Crack - 5.8
  • Condolences - 5.7
  • Congratulations - 5.10a
  • Evelyn Bites The.. - 5.10b
  • Flake Route - 5.10d
  • Golden Ledges - 5.11b
  • Hourglass - 5.11c
  • Hourglass Direct - 5.12a
  • Ironmonger's - 5.7
  • Ironmonger's Super - 5.11a
  • Lethe - 5.7
  • Lower Diagonal - 5.8
  • Pine Box - 5.10a
  • Rich & Famous - 5.11d
  • Sometime Crack - 5.10a
  • Sometime Direct - 5.10d
  • Sweatshop - 5.11b
  • The Pedestal - 5.4
  • The Stretcher - 5.9
  • The Trick - 5.8

Potholes Area

  • Angel's crack - 5.6
  • Jolly Roger - 5.8

Pseudo Hawk’s Nest

  • ABM - 5.11b
  • Bagatelle - 5.12c
  • Beginner's Demise - 5.11a
  • Bloody Mary - 5.8
  • Death and.. - 5.8
  • Degrade My Sister - 5.11a
  • Immaculate.. - 5.10a
  • Phlogiston - 5.12d
  • Pretzel - 5.6
  • Prime Rib - 5.9

Railroad Amphitheatre

  • Catinary Crack - 5.9
  • Cop out - 5.11a
  • Cop Ripper - 5.12b
  • JACK THE RIPPER - 5.10c
  • Pine Tree Dihedral - 5.5
  • Pine Tree - 5.6
  • Right of Eye - 5.4
  • Snedegar's Nose - 5.7
  • The Pillar - 5.6

Rainy Wednesday Tower

  • Double Overhang - 5.4
  • False Alarm Jam - 5.6
  • Foreplay - 5.6
  • Resurrection Right - 5.11c

Sometime Block

  • Sometime Crack - 5.10a
  • Sometime Direct - 5.10d
  • The End - 5.10b

The Guillotine

  • Anarchist Crack - 5.4
  • Barefoot Crack - 5.3
  • Decapitation - 5.7
  • Guillotine East - 5.2
  • Guillotine West - 5.2
  • Labor Pains - 5.9
  • The Gopher - 5.7

The Monster

  • Frankenstein - 5.12b
  • The Monster - 5.10c

Two Pines Buttress

  • Big Deal - 5.10a
  • Crosstown Traffic - 5.12a
  • Dyspepsia - 5.6
  • Full Stop - 5.6
  • Mouse Tracks - 5.11a
  • Mouse's Misery - 5.10a
  • Solar Eclipse - 5.7
  • The Grotto - 5.4
  • The Rack - 5.7
  • Thoroughfare - 5.11a
  • Vacillation - 5.7

Old Sandstone Area - The Old Sandstone Area is simply an extension of the East Bluff, but definitely shouldn't be overlooked. Instead of the normal quartzite found through the rest of the Devil's Lake area, both this and the New Sandstone areas are excellent sandstone.

  • Alligator Wall - 5.9
  • American Beauty.. - 5.8
  • Baker Street - 5.10d
  • Chez's Chimney - 5.4
  • Curving Crack - 5.8
  • Dancing Madly - 5.10b
  • Deceptive - 5.10d
  • Everleigh Club - 5.8
  • Freaky Face - 5.9
  • Gargantua - 5.10b
  • Gargantua  2 - 5.9
  • Mammalary Magic - 5.10a
  • Mammalry Magic - 5.10a
  • Out There - 5.9
  • Pacific Ocean Wall - 5.11d
  • Sepsen Wall - 5.12b
  • Taratula - 5.10b
  • Team Arturo - 5.10b
  • The Nipple - V1
  • Uberschmidt - 5.11d
  • Unamed - 5.7
  • Wobbly Dihedral - 5.9

West Bluff - The West Bluff sits directly across the lake from the East Bluff, obviously. And it definitely holds the same beautiful climbing. Amazingly enough, it doesn't see the impact that the East Bluff does, which makes it a great escape during those weekend rushes.

By Gully

  • Pee Wee’s Innocent - 5.12a
  • Rock Divot - 5.9

Cleo Amphitheatre

  • Barndoor - 5.8
  • Better When Dry - 5.7
  • Curved Wall - 5.7
  • Dumb Wide Crack - 5.4
  • Easy for Steve - 5.4
  • Hang Dog - 5.9
  • King's Throne - 5.6
  • Mickey Mouse - 5.4
  • Minnie Mouse - 5.4
  • Minnie Mum - 5.3
  • Pinko - 5.7
  • Queen's Face - 5.8
  • Queen's Throne - 5.4
  • Queen's Throne - 5.7
  • The Corner - 5.3
  • The Plank - 5.8
  • Throne Room - 5.5
  • Tilted Tower - 5.9

Cleopatra’s Needle

  • 5.4 cracks - 5.4
  • Northeast Comfort - 5.4
  • Northwest Side - 5.4
  • Southwest crack - 5.6
  • Unnamed (route 6) - 5.7

Great Tower

  • Great Crack - 5.6
  • North Chimney - 5.4

Lincoln’s Chair

  • 5.2 Crack - 5.3
  • 5.2 Slab - 5.3
  • 5.2 Wall - 5.3
  • 5.3 Wall - 5.3
  • 5.4 Chockstone - 5.4
  • 5.4 Corner - 5.4
  • 5.4 Crack - 5.4
  • 5.7 Crack - 5.7
  • 5.7 Cracks - 5.7
  • 5.7 Face - 5.7
  • Left Arm Face - 5.5
  • Lincoln's Chair - 5.4
  • Lincoln's Chair 2 - 5.4
  • Two Toad Corner - 5.8

Lower Band

  • Lower Band Chimney - 5.4
  • Lower Band Crack - 5.4
  • Lower Band Face - 5.7
  • Old Pew - 5.7

Misery Rocks

  • False Perspective - 5.6
  • Fat Man's Misery - 5.4
  • Pillow's Edge - 5.8
  • The Pillow - 5.6
  • Wailing Wall - 5.10c
  • Weeping Wall - 5.9

Porkchop Buttress

  • The Bone - 5.5
  • The Bone(5.7) Variation - 5.7

Prospect Point Rampart

  • Coup d'Etat - 5.11a
  • Cracker Jack - 5.8
  • Lost Face - 5.6
  • Lost Face Overhang.. - 5.8
  • Son of Great - 5.11b
  • The Good, The Bad, The Ugly - 5.12a
  • Unnamed (Lost Face) - 5.7
  • Wild West Homo - 5.11a

Reclining Tower

  • No Name - 5.6
  • Pine Tree Crack - 5.8
  • Unnamed - 5.4

Split Tower

  • Half Moon - 5.7
  • Moon Face - 5.7

Stettner Rocks

  • Beastly Boil # 14 - 5.9
  • Beastly Bulge # 15 - 5.7
  • Bucket Brigade # 13 - 5.5
  • Chuncky Chimney # 6 - 5.3
  • Fat Guy Chimney # 7 - 5.3
  • Hey Brett, We're Here - 5.4
  • Short Stuff # 1 - 5.8
  • Southern Exposure # 2 - 5.3
  • Sven's Bulge - 5.4
  • Sven's Pines - 5.1
  • Svengarlic - 5.9
  • The Brothers # 5 - 5.7
  • The Mantle Shelf #6 - 5.8
  • The Niche # 10 - 5.4
  • The Nose of El - 5.6
  • Wiegs Way - 5.3

The Pantry

  • Breadboard Arete - 5.5
  • Breadboard Right - 5.5
  • Pantry Shelf - 5.7
  • The Pantry - 5.6

Turk’s Head

  • A Point of Balance - 5.8
  • Fritz - 5.7
  • Just Another Pretty  Face - 5.11a
  • Stinger - 5.8
  • The Wasp - 5.8
  • Turk's Head - 5.5
  • Turk's Tooth - 5.3
  • Weissner Chimney - 5.4
  • Wiessner's Face - 5.7

Tyrolean Tower

  • Lone Pine Diagonal - 5.8
  • Last Crack - 5.10a

Amenities
Baraboo Hills Campground
E10545 Terrytown Road
Baraboo, Wisconsin 53913
Phone- 800-226-7292
http://www.baraboohillscampground.com

Hotels
Inn At Wawanissee Point
E13609 Tower Road
Baraboo, Wisconsin 53913
Phone- 608-355-9899
http://www.innatwawanisseepoint.com

Directions
From Interstate 90-94 just take exit 106 to Highway 33. Take a right at the stop sign and go to Baraboo. (13 miles) When you get to Baraboo Take a left at the 2nd stop light. (This is Business Hwy 12) Then go through town and watch for a sign to the park. You will turn left on Highway 123 and follow it straight out to the park. Coming From The North or Wisconsin Dells: Just take Highway 12 south (Exit 92) and go about 1 mile past Baraboo (approximately 14 miles). Take a left on Highway 159. This will bring you to Highway 123. Take a right and follow into the park.

GPS: 
Latitude: 43.4103
Longitude: -89.715

Comments

That is quite an exhaustive list of DL climbs. If you already know how to climb, then obviously you can attack that list pretty easily. If you aren't an experienced climber, however, and you might need a guide to help you get started. We are one of several great Devils Lake area guide services who can help beginners get out on the rock. If you need a guide, call us at 608.556.1135 or hit the website: www.devilslakeclimbingguides.com. Thanks!

The climbing here is just amazing and challenging. The heights range from bouldering to over 80 ft tall. All the climbing top rope with a couple of exceptions for lead climbing. I have been climbing there for years and I find a new route each time I go.