Eden Park Reservoir, Ohio (OH)

Location

Eden Park Reservoir, Ohio
United States
39° 7' 0.12" N, 84° 29' 34.8" W
US

Completed in 1878 the two basins of Eden Park Reservoir covered a total of 12 acres. The east basin retaining wall consisted of eight elliptical arches, each spanning 55'. The length was 1,250'. The width at the base was 48.5', tapering to 25' on the top walk. These basins were cleaned in alternate years and everything was found from wrecked cars to suicide victims. When this cleaning took place municipal picnics, complete with music and dancing were held inside the empty basin.  Although chemical purification of city water began in 1907 at the new water plant upriver at California, the Eden Park reservoir remained in use. In the 1960s the stone retaining wall of the lower/eastern basin was largely removed and the basin filled in for ball fields. The upper/western basin was made deeper to increase its capacity to 80,000,000 gallons. The reservoir was used until 1965 when it was covered with a shallow 3/4 acre reflecting pool.  Now, one part of the wall remains for rock climbing.

Climbing Routes

Mirror Lake Wall- 5.7 Across from the field and next to the reflecting pool, this is a nice little climb.

  • Mirror Lake Wall Traverse- 5.7 This is an easy traverse along the low-angled wall. (Traditional)

Old Reservoir Wall- 5.5-5.11a/V2-V5

  • Full Arch Traverse- V5 The toughest boulder problem at Eden Park.
  • Left Arch Boulder- V3 A fun, juggy problem.
  • Bauman’s Problem- V3 This face climb has some nice finger friction.
  • Nugget-V2 A nice warm up with a tricky finger crimp.
  • Slot Bot- V1 Long moves make for a fun top out.
  • The Arete- V2 The only arête at Eden Park.
  • Unknown Lead- 5.9 A fun learning route that is good for technical training. (Sport/Top Rope)
  • Triple B- 5.6 This easy top rope climb is a great warm up.
  • Spiderman’s Traverse- 5.11a Multiple crux’s and difficult sections make for a long tricky climb. (Traditional/Top Rope)
  • Right Up- 5.5 A short route easy for free solo or bouldering. Bring your crash pad.
  • Main Wall- 5.9 A nice top rope warm up.
  • Left Short- 5.6 This short route is great for learning and teaching. (Top Rope)Left Battlement- 5.10a A high top out may deter you from free soloing this route, but it has been done. (Top Rope)
  • Dante’s Inferno- 5.7 This climb gets really hot on sunny days. (Top Rope)
  • Battlement Right- 5.11a The tallest battlement has three faces, the left, the middle and the right. Traditionally, it has been said these climbs are roughly 5.10, 5.12, and 5.11, accordingly. (Top Rope)
  • Battlement Middle- 5.12a A very tough climb, hard sequencing and difficult feet. (Top Rope)
  • Battlement Lefty- 5.10c This line goes up the left face of the left-most battlement. Small cracks between the large bricks provide good sized crimpers for sustained climbing all the way up to the parapets. Most of the locals boulder and free solo these lines - but setting up a toprope is easy and a good idea.

Amenities

Camping and Lodging
Winton Woods
10245 Winton Rd.
Cincinnati, OH 45231
Phone- 513-851-2267

2011 prices are $125/night for deluxe cabins ($750/week), $50/night for camping cabins, $45/night for pull-through sites, $35/night for full hookups and $25/night for 30amp electric sites.

Directions
Follow Eden Park Drive to Martin Street. Park and walk 40 feet to the wall clearly visible from the road. Not too far from the Ohio River or I-75.

GPS: 
Latitude: 39.1167
Longitude: -84.493