Elywood Cascade, Ohio (OH)

Location

Elywood Cascade, Ohio
United States
41° 22' 37.2" N, 82° 6' 20.52" W
US
Elyria, Ohio was founded in 1817 by Heman Ely, who built a log house, dam, gristmill, and sawmill on the site. Ely began to build more houses to accommodate immigrating settlers. By the time Ely died in 1852, Elyria had 5 churches, 3 grocery stores, 3 flour mills, a newspaper, and a population of more than 1,500. Now, lying 50 miles outside of Cleveland the town has grown to over 25,000.  Unfortunately the residents here have not taken the greatest care of Elywood and Cascade Park, but it still offers some nice sandstone bouldering and climbing options.
 

Climbing Routes

Bear Cave- V0 Bears used to inhabit this large rock face with large overhangs.
  • Bear Cave- V0 This sandstone boulder next to the old bear cave will provide a decent warm up problem.
Choss Crack- V0 Just past the parking area this crack can be a great learning experience.
 
Entrance Boulder- V2-V5 This huge boulder holds three fun problems.
  • Ball Breaker- V5 A pretty easy problem with a couple of crimps before the top out.
  • Seams Easy- V2 This rock could use a cleaning and is tough on the ankles.
  • Mr. Hero- V5 This problem has a large diagonal hold and a good scare factor.  Try not to fall into the tree!
Orogeny Wall- V3-V8 This flat vertical wall is on the Cascade side of the river.
  • Imaginary Line- V8 Located on the tallest section of the boulder, climbers need to be cautious on the finish.
  • Whiskey Ginger- V4 Top out at the right on this climb.
  • Sophie Incarcerated- V5 This climb tends to be easier for taller boulderers.
  • Orogeny- V3 Lots of angles and tricky footwork define this problem.
  • Jiveturkey- V4 Be careful on the thin edges and be sure to put your left foot on the hold.
The Blubster- V0-V4 Watch for the bright orange paint and you will know you are in the right spot.
  • The Club- V0 Watch your feet, they will send this problem.
  • Ibuprofen- V4 This is a challenging climb for those climbers who cannot seem to close their hands.
  • Crack Traverse- V4 Start left and climb right to the highest point of the boulder. 
Quarry- V0-V8 On the Cascade side of the river.
  • Jailbreak- V8 This is a manufactured problem but still lots of fun.
  • Quagmire- V2 This odd shaped rock offers a decent little problem or two.
  • Sex & The City- V8 This angular prow has a great sidepull first move.
  • Sweendog- V0 Nice warmup, Sweendog is spray painted on the boulder.
Grey Paint Boulder- V2-V7 Hey, look for the grey paint!
  • Blood Diamond- V5 This climb has a hard start and a worth it top out.
  • Up Above the Stars- V5 A good solid climb with static movements.
  • Easy Sleazy- V2 A great warm up with lots of surrounding problems.
  • Stars and Bars- V6 A variation of the Grey Paint problem, once you solve it, it may be harder to get down.
  • Grey Paint- V4 Lots of great edges and seams.
  • Slap Chip- V5 Nice slopers welcome you with an even nicer mantle.
  • Lumberjack- V4 There are nice face holds before the top out on this climb.
  • On The Cross- V5 This arête route leads to the highest point on the boulder.
  • Pulp Enema- V7 A nice unrepeated climb.
Amenities
Schaun Acres Campground
51390 State Route 303
Oberlin, OH  44074
Phone- 440-775-7122
 
Hotels
Quality Inn
739 Leona St. 
Elyria, OH. 44035
Phone- 440-324-7676
 
Directions
Exit I90 at Rt. 57 go south (left) to 113 and turn left again, then right on Furnace.

 

GPS: 
Latitude: 41.377
Longitude: -82.1057