Governor Dodge, Wisconsin (WI)

Location

Governor Dodge, Wisconsin
United States
43° 0' 51.84" N, 90° 6' 36.36" W
US

More than 8,000 years ago, men and women made winter camps at the base of rock overhangs enjoying the protection of the sandstone walls. As the weather warmed, they moved into more open areas of what is now Wisconsin and Illinois to hunt bison and other game. Now men and women still camp in Governor Dodge State Park and those sandstone walls have become the home to a new adventure. Rock Climbing and bouldering are becoming a more popular sport as people begin to more whole heartedly embrace the outdoors of the United States. Please respect the rock at Governor Dodge State Park, as some of it is fragile. It is requested that no more bolts be places in to the sandstone.

Climbing Routes

Group Campsite B- V2-V5/Highballs litter the grounds where these boulders lie.

  • Asthmatica- V2
  • Get the Hell outta Dodge- V5
  • Leaning Roack- V3
  • Wright's Arete- V2
  • A Taste of Choss- 5.12

Backbone Ridge- Backbone Ridge is the northern half of the Group B bouldering area.

EAST SIDE

  • Ticks- V3
  • Mr. Longarm- V3
  • Midwest Hardcore Presents- V3
  • The Guillotine Left- V3-4
  • Massacre Direct- V4
  • Get the Hell Outta Dodge- V4
  • Hangman- V5
  • Foothold Massacre- V6
  • Internet Predator- V6
  • Highly Executed- V7
  • Full Execution-V9
  • Mrs. Shortarm- V0-1
  • Slugs- V4
  • Between a Tree and a Hard Place-V1-2
  • Call Girl-V1
  • Mark it Zero-V0
  • Firing Squad- V0
  • Lethal Injection- V1+
  • Hangman- V5
  • Guillotine Left- V3
  • Guillotine Right- V1

WEST SIDE

  • Picasso Way Left- V1
  • Picasso Left- V2
  • Picasso Center- V3
  • Picasso Right- V1-2
  • Belly of the Beast- V1+
  • Picasso Pillar- V2
  • Crack- V0
  • Eighteen (and life)- V3-
  • Seventeen- V0
  • Face Left of Wright's Arete- V3
  • Take My Picture- V2
  • Me So Gorny- V1+
  • Me So Gorny Direct/Don't Commit! The Footchip You Are On Is Broken!-V2-3
  • Scarete- V2
  • Left out- V4-5
  • Dangle- V4-5
  • Vitamin V-less- V1-2
  • bottom of the barrel- V3
  • Udaho- V1
  • Battle of the Bulge- V7-8
  • Product of the Southwest- V6
  • Trail Crew- V3
  • Dire Straight- V1
  • Midwest Hardcore- (aka 6hrs)- V4
  • Nameless Slab- V1-2
  • Nameless- V5-
  • Sandstone Violence- V8
  • Bane of Vince- V3 PG13
  • Forgotten Finger Crack- V2-3
  • Mr. Clean- V2+
  • Prostrator- V2
  • Early Bird- V4
  • Twelve- V2-
  • Twelve A- V0+
  • Another Warmup- V0
  • Leaning Rock- V3
  • First Things First- V0

Barrel Boulders-These routes themselves offer a variety of movement on vertical to over vertical faces, bulges, and aretes. A fun place to stop.

  • Bulls In A China Shop- V6
  • Corner Problem- V0-1
  • Dirty Bird- V3
  • Dirty Direct- V4
  • Dirty Traverse- V3
  • Gennaro- V6-
  • Half Crack- V0
  • Hidden in Plain Sight- V6
  • If Not Here, Where?- V5+
  • If Not Now, When?- V3
  • Just a Handful- V5
  • Kegel the Elf- V3-4
  • Low and Behold- V3-4
  • Open Season- V4-5
  • Right Leaning Ramp- V0+
  • Right Red Arete- V2-3
  • Shister Wall- V2-3
  • Shister-V4

Barrel Ridge- Barrel ridge consists of a tight cluster of several quality boulder problems, and good potential for possible 30-40ft TR routes. The rock is high quality for the park, and most all of the landings are flat and forgiving.

ABC Boulder- A cool bus-sized boulder with a 45 degree overhanging face that holds a few great lines.

  • Alpine Bouldering Club (A.B.C.)- V6
  • Broken Dreams- V6-
  • Project- V7-8
  • Breakaway- V5

Barrel Ridge Proper- A nice ridge of mostly solid sandstone with problems around 15 feet tall, some perhaps taller and some shorter. Pad and spotter recommended.

  • Getting There
  • Herding Cat- V0
  • Cat Fancy- V2-3
  • Eschew Obfuscuity- V5-6
  • Testtickler- V4
  • Pale Gardener- V1-2
  • A Real Cool Hand- V3
  • Welcome to the Top- V1
  • Tread Lightly- V1
  • Almost Left Behind- V1
  • Makes Me Smile- V4
  • What would Steve Dew?- V4
  • Fairytale Land- V3
  • It Gets Nervous- V5
  • Hang Loose- V3
  • Beached Whale- V2
  • Lichen Love- V1+
  • Steve Done- V2-3
  • Early Release- V3-4
  • Parole Violation- V3-4

Sandbox Boulders- A handful of decent lines present some fun problems.

  • Melinhead (AKA Sandbox Arete)- V2
  • Sandbox Dyno- V2
  • Sandbox Warm-up- V0
  • Scared of the Sandbox- V3
  • Little Prow- V1-2
  • Melincholy (AKA Little Roof)- V1

Boat Landing Boulders- Next to the boat dock and below the cliffline.

  • Big Jim- V1+
  • Big Jim center- V2
  • Big Jim left- V1
  • Grounded For Life- V5
  • House Arrest- V1
  • Muramasa- V7-8
  • Out Past Curfew- V4
  • Project- V4+
  • Time Out- V1
  • Tree Slab- V0

Boulder 401 Area- A secluded south facing collection of bluff line and a bunch of boulders. Some big some small, exploration still needs to be done.

  • Bramble On- V2
  • Estellar- V3
  • Good Day Governor- V3
  • Lumpy Corner- V0
  • Oak Tree Crack- V1
  • Oak Tree Groove- V0
  • Playtime- V0-1
  • Pop Corner- V4
  • Prairie Fire- V2
  • RGR Direct- V3
  • Rock Garden Roof- V2
  • Rock Slide- V2-
  • Sunnyside Slab- V0
  • Under the Sun- V1-2
  • Vanis- V2-3

The Complex- This is a small collection of boulders nestled between two prominent cliffs.

  • Egghead- V1
  • High Tide- V2
  • It's Oral Over- V6-
  • Sand Stone Surfin- V2
  • Scientists- V3-4
  • Wanderer- V1

Danny’s Imaginary Boulders

Chalk and Chocolate Boulder- The boulder is basically a fin of rock with its backside covered in lichen.

  • Chalk & Chocolate- V2

Illusions Area- A nice roof lying right along the cliffline.

  • Bulge- V6
  • Freaney's Fin- V1
  • Freaney's Fright- V2
  • Illusions of Paradise- V7
  • Natural Highs Come a Whole Lot Cheaper- V3
  • Two tickets to Paradise- V8

Loch Ness Boulder- The biggest boulder at this location.

  • Lochness Arete- V2
  • Sasquatch Face- V1
  • Taint Of Truth- V1-2

Pimp Boulder- The smallest boulder at this location.

  • Deferred Judgement- V3
  • Keep Your Pimp Hand Strong- V2
  • Word To Your Mother- V1

Deutschlander Wall- This small, black and tan streaked wall is home to some of the hardest climbing to be had in the park. Great technical opportunities await. (Traditional Climbing)

  • Deustchlander Uber Alles- 5.12c
  • Nicht Richte- 5.12d
  • Schizer!- 5.11a
  • Was ist Das?- 5.11+

G Dodge Ice

Cox Hollow- Nice lines in waterfall. (Ice Climbing; see Pictured Rocks for a full list of Ice Climbing Grades)

  • Sorcerers of Death's Construction- WI3
  • Waterfall- WI2-3

Stephens Falls- Terraced ice walls with a few clean routes. (Ice Climbing)

  • Orange Peel- WI2-3
  • Pokey Gonzales Goes Ice Climbing- WI3
  • Stephens Falls- WI3

Group Camp A- Nice slabs of sandstone and quartzite.

  • Chris Cross Choss- V5
  • Cool Hand Luke- V2
  • Dragons- V4
  • Dungeons- V3
  • Just Dew It- V4
  • Leprosy- V1
  • Rook's Rump- V1
  • Rook- V0

Group Camp G- South and West facing boulders around the base of the bluff.

  • Birds Of Prey- V1
  • Born Full Grown- V2
  • Cat Scratch Fever- V1
  • Catacomb- V2-3
  • Coagulation- V6
  • Coffin Varnish- V1
  • Head Trauma- V4
  • Jurassic Park- V2
  • Mesmerizing The Ultra-V1
  • Nobody You Know- V1
  • Pot Kettle Black- V1
  • Red Light District- V1
  • Speakeasy- V4
  • Sweatshop- V2
  • Young Goodman Brown- V1

Group Camp Z- A nice cluster of boulders and cliff band overlooking a green prairie.

  • Devils Urn- V4-5
  • Identifiable Percolation- V6-
  • Pallium Problem- V2-3
  • Project Perhaps?- V6
  • Scooby Dooby Dew- V1

Lonely Boulders- The Lonely boulders are a group of three separate boulders on the opposite end of Barn Bluff from the Qual Wall. These guys have been waiting a long time to see some action. The better problems here are some of the finest in the park with steep climbing on generally solid holds.

  • Another Day Dream- V3
  • Curl Boulder- V0-1
  • Day Dream Arete- V5
  • Flake Face- V0-1
  • For the Boulderer- V3-4
  • Left Alone- V2
  • Left Arete- V0-1
  • Loner Right Arete- V2
  • Loner- V5
  • Only the Lonely- V4
  • Wingspan- V3

Qual Wall- A small sport climbing area with 11 fully bolted and one partially bolted routes on a small cliff band. The sandstone is generally solid with crimpers and slopers predominating. (Traditional Climbing)

  • Crack left of Leftwing- 5.4
  • Leftwing- 5.10-
  • Pocket Warmup- 5.10b/c
  • Nut Job 5 .9+
  • Warm Up 2- 5.10-
  • Quail Stew- 5.10+
  • Warm Up 1- 5.9
  • Great White Top Rope- 5.12b
  • Now or Never- 5.11+
  • A Red Recollection- 5.11a
  • Espionage- 5.11
  • Top Rope Hero- 5.11+
  • Secret Agent Man- 5.13a
  • Nordwand- 5.11b
  • Block Party- 5.12
  • Fahrenheit 23- 5.12c
  • Unlisted Number- 5.11+
  • Purple Jeep- 5.8
  • Butt Dialed Me Today- 5.7
  • Sawyer Cried Rhoads Died- 5.10a
  • Schizophrenia- 5.11+
  • Unknown / "Meaner than Green"- 5.12a/b
  • Eaten Alive- 5.8
  • More Choss Than Moss- 5.9+

Steve’s ZZ Boulders- A tight grouping of tall south facing lines, on solid, dry rock.

  • A Test of Tesselation- V4
  • Brushrunners Delight- V1+
  • Carrion- V1
  • Little Bit of Lank- V2-3
  • Low Down with a S.A.D. Frown- V3
  • Mossius Enigma- V4
  • Strong Men Also Cry- V8
  • Zpring Time Arete- V3-4
  • Zummer Time Crack- V3-4

Twin Valley Campground Bouldering- This wall is probably 150 long with a good variety of features.

  • Saloon Doors- V0
  • Too soon- V4

Twin Valley North- A collection of a bunch of boulders and cliff bands.

  • 87th Best- V1
  • Aibohphobia- V1
  • Cold Dinner Tonight- V2+
  • Creeper- V3
  • Last Call- V2+
  • Life on the Prairie- V5
  • Live Not on Evil- V2
  • Party Boobytrap- V1
  • So Many Dynamos!- V2
  • Training Weight- V1

Amenities
Governor Dodge Campground Sites
To reserve a group site, use the Web or call center, (888) WI PARKS ((888) 947-2757, TTY (800) 274-7275).
Fee waivers for nonprofit groups serving people with disabilities and discounts for nonprofit Wisconsin youth organizations are available only through the call center, or customer service number, (800) 372-3607, not the web site.

Directions Take US Highway 18 to Dodgeville, which is about 48 miles west of Madison, Wisconsin. Then go north on State Highway 23. The park entrance is on your right about 3 miles north of Highway 18. You also can take the scenic Highway 23 south from Spring Green or north from Mineral Point to reach the park. By foot or bicycle, you can get to Governor Dodge by way of the Military Ridge State Trail. There's a surfaced access trail from the Military Ridge to the park just east of County Highway Z.

GPS: 
Latitude: 43.0144
Longitude: -90.1101