Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio (OH)

Location

Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio
United States
39° 25' 50.16" N, 82° 32' 19.68" W
US

Hocking Hills State Park is full of deep gorges and high cliffs, the result of the erosion-resistant Blackhand Sandstone, which extends well to the northeast of the Hocking Hills.  Hocking County was named from a shortened version of the Hockhocking River. Hockhocking, in the Delaware tongue, signifies a bottle. In Shawnee, Wea-tha-Kagh-Qua-sepe, meant bottle river. The Hockhocking River had a waterfall of nearly 20 feet located about 6 or 7 miles northwest of Lancaster. Above the falls, the creek was very narrow and straight, forming the "bottle" neck.  As a result, these cliffs left some of the best opportunities for rock climbing and rappelling in all of Ohio.  Remember, there are lots of tempting spots to climb at Hocking Hills, but climbing is only permitted in the designated area.  You will be fined if you are caught climbing at any other location.

Climbing Routes

Verde Rock- 5.9 Two great trees provide awesome anchors as well as opportunities for rappelling.

  • Slip N Slide- 5.9 Easy grabs and small ledges will test your skills on this intermediate route. (Top Rope)

Right Cliff- 5.8 Use the left side of this cliff for climbing and the right side for rappelling.

  • Small Eastern Cliff/Canyon- 5.8 Lots of small grips will help to strengthen any climber’s skill. (Top Rope)

Big Block Area/The Rectan- 5.6-5.10d/V0-V6 Access this climb from the rear and take it on.

  • Wet Willy Dyno- V4 The jug top out is a load of fun.
  • Wet Willy- V3 Straight up the face and over the ledge solves this problem.
  • Triangle Boulder/Shotgun Boulder- V2 Nice pockets and crimpers lead to a great top out.
  • Little Wing- V0 Great Beginners route, possibly a little more challenging than a 0.
  • Hey Joe- V3 A great line with a tricky dismount.
  • Birthday- 5.6 After rappelling down, the upclimb may trip you up, beware. (Top Rope)
  • Seven Crack- 5.10d Rough and edgy, new and unchartered, this route is ready for your hypothesis. (Top Rope)
  • The Crack- 5.8 This crack goes all the way to the top and usually stays wet. (Top Rope)

Shipwreck Rock- V3 The boulder problems lie on the “nose” of the rock.

  • Egyptian Wing Span- V3 Right to left to solve the problem.
  • Under the Nose- V3 A short route with tricky feet.

Six Crack Area- 5.7-5.8/V3-V6 The overhung caves create great ambiance for these problems and climbs.

  • Six Crack- V6 A fantastic line that starts in the back of the cave and moves left to a big jug.
  • Earth Worm Jim- V3 The top out in the groove is “groovy.”
  • Bombers Baby- 5.7 Great holds but tricky fingers. (Top Rope)
  • Bombers Delight- 5.8 More great holds and lots of nice trees to tie off on. (Top Rope)

The Play Ground- 5.5-5.11a Great views and lots of nice climbs up to 80 feet high.

  • Eagle’s Wing- 5.5 A great chimney and learning opportunity.  Spice it up by going left. (Top Rope)
  • Broken Memory- 5.7 This fun climb gets more difficult towards the top. (Top Rope)
  • Been There Done That- 5.7 Skip the chimney an d climb to the right and you may be one of the firsts to make it to the top. (Top Rope)
  • Hanging Out- 5.8 The overhang near the top of this route will be your biggest challenge. (Top Rope)
  • Mossy Demise- 5.10a Up the left side until you hit some great bomber holds and some challenging moss. (Top Rope)
  • SITA- 5.11a This route has an extremely rough start with almost no finger holds, but do not fret and keep on trying. (Top Rope)

Center Rock Right- 5.3-5.9 Two fun climbs waiting just across the ravine.

  • Blasphemous Child- 5.9 Crimpy, upside down hands will be the hardest part of this climb. (Top Rope)
  • Corner Pocket- 5.3 A nice route to make your way across the cliff. (Traditional)

Left Cliff- 5.7- 5.10a A nice set of faces and cracks.

  • Death of Master P- 5.10a A smooth face with hidden cracks. (Top Rope)
  • Nyse’s Baby- 5.7 The initial move on this route may stump you but this long, scenic climb is worth the effort. (Top Rope)

Amenities
Hocking Hills Campground
26633 Main St.
PO Box 143
Rockbridge, OH 43149
Phone- 800-686-0386

Happy Hills Campground
22245 St. Rt. 278
Nelsonville, OH 45764
Phone- 740-385-6720

Hotels
Bear Run Inn
8260 Bear Run Rd.
Logan, OH 43138
Phone- 740-385-8007 / 800-369-2937

A Georgian Manner B&B
29055 Evans Rd.
Logan, OH 43138
Phone- 800-606-1840 / 740-380-9567

Directions
Take I-77 south to Cambridge. Take I-70 west to the U.S. 37 east/Lancaster exit (#126). Follow U.S. 37 to Lancaster. Turn right onto US 22 for 4 blocks. Turn left onto U.S. 33 east. Continue on U.S. 33 to the State Route 664 (Logan/Bremen) exit. Exit at 664. Turn right (south). The Hocking Hills Welcome Center is located just south of the intersection of SR 664 and US 33.

GPS: 
Latitude: 39.4306
Longitude: -82.5388