Logtown Quarries, Ohio (OH)

Location

Logtown Quarries, Ohio
United States
40° 46' 30" N, 80° 45' 44.28" W
US

Logtown Quarries lies just outside Lisbon, Ohio and was originally known for its iron and whiskey production. Because of this the area became a hodge-podge of mills, tanneries, a cement works, salt works, carpenters, gunsmiths, hotels, and clothiers.  Now you can explore the remnants of this town that was a bustling production village in the 1800’s and dig up some new rock climbing treasures in Logtown Quarries. When you are ready to climb here, you should stop by the City Hall and be sure to get permission from them or from the local Boy Scout chapter which owns the land that the quarries are located on.  This location is very well maintained and provides some of the most excellent climbing opportunities in Ohio.  Oh, and do not tempt fate by climbing the Tower.  You will be fined if you are caught, if you do not injure yourself first.

Climbing Routes

The Pit- 5.4-5.10b The Pit is a very distinctive rock structure that actually looks like a pit.  It has a great overhang and three fantastic walls. 
  • Rock Fall- 5.8 In early 1992 an actual rockslide formed this crescent shaped route. (Top Rope)
  • Bursitis- 5.6 This small roof needs a good lead but runs a really fun climb. (Top Rope)
  • Dreadlock- 5.6 This 15 foot crack makes for a great warm up. (Top Rope)
  • Satisfaction- 5.10a Here you will climb until you are about two feet under the roof crack. Nice and easy. (Top Rope)
  • Wicked Fingers- 5.10a Try to make it all the way to the ceiling to send this one. (Top Rope)
  • Bursitis Direct- 5.8 This route takes a lot of stretching and lunging, nice pockets keep things tight. (Top Rope)
  • Gun Control- 5.10b A great top out makes this one worth the tricky mantle.  (Top Rope)
  • Rastafaria- 5.8 Forty-five feet straight up. (Top Rope)
  • No Compassion- 5.6 Two levels of inside corner climbing create a long but simple route.
  • Reggae Got Sole- 5.10b It will be tempting to use the corner crack while climbing this bulge but this 45 foot route does not use the corner.  Try to stick to the route. (Top Rope)
  • Classic Corner Crack- 5.4 This is a great crack to practice and learn to belay on. (Top Rope) 
  • Highly Sellassie- 5.5 The east corner of the pit holds this 45 foot climb. (Top Rope)
The Big Cliff- 5.6 This cliff has a nice overhang and bouldering problem.
  • Overhang Boulder Problem- 5.6 When you reach the highest point, climb the prow shaped 15 foot boulder. (Use a bouldering pad)
Nightmare Wall- 5.6-5.11a This wall has some very interesting textures to it with lots of ripples and waves.  Your fingers will love the variety and great holds on this wall.  Be sure to stop climbing once you reach the ledge.  The rock above the ledge is not stable.
  • Nightmare’s Right Side- 5.11a This route is easier than it looks after you send the crux which is full of precision and lots of small crimps. (Top Rope)
  • Dreaming- 5.6 A fun diagonal climb, corner to corner. (Top Rope)
  • Battle of the Bulge- 5.7 Twenty feet of bulge and lots of warm up. (Top Rope)
  • Nightmare- 5.7 A great 20 foot route for beginner climbers. (Top Rope)
  • Spock Lives- 5.6 This route stems out into a great face climb. (Top Rope)
The Front Wall- 5.3-5.11a Sharp edges and bulging corners make this area a beginners dream.  So much learning potential lies on this natural sandstone.
  • Before Me/Block Party- 5.7 This could also be considered a V1 boulder problem.  Low climb, lots of fun. (Top Rope/Boulder Pad)
  • After You- 5.6 A great warm up, easy and short. (Top Rope)
  • Obsession- 5.11a The flake will challenge you on this climb. (Top Rope)
  • Fire Place- 5.7 A climb with lots of long reaches, strong arms required! (Top Rope)
  • Obsessed- 5.11 Find the finger pocket and send the climb. (Top Rope)
  • A Ryser Route- 5.3 Large blocks to climb around, be prepared for a few scratches. (Top Rope)
  • Bugs Bunny- 5.10a Climb the prow and hop over the top. Bugs is easier than it looks. (Top Rope)
  • Genesis- 5.4 Top out over a small roof, this route is quick, easy and fun for beginners. (Top Rope)
  • Boulder Problem Extension 1- 5.7 This odd shaped bucket has been developed into the first of three great sport climbs. (Sport)
  • Boulder Problem Extension 2- 5.7 Part two of the bucket. (Sport)
  • Beach Party- 5.6 You can climb 35 feet up through the beautifully marked rock. (Top Rope)
  • Husker Do- 5.3 Husker is a shallow corner with an simple face climb. (Top Rope)
The Big O.A. Crag- 5.3-5.10a This area has a nice variety of climbs with great trees for anchoring.  Be sure to get permission from the Boy Scouts before climbing here.
  • Microholds- 5.10a This nightmare of nubbins may have your fingers raw by the time you reach the top out. (Top Rope)
  • Nanoholds- 5.10b On this route more nubbins will continue to haunt you if you traverse this one. (Top Rope)
  • S to the Firth- 5.7 This is a great, easy face climb. (Top Rope)
  • Scaryodi Corner- 5.4 Her you can climb a quick 20 foot warm up. (Top Rope)
  • Traverse of the Big O.A.- 5.4 Start horizontal and end up vertical on this sixty foot climb. (Top Rope)
  • Disposable Heroes- 5.8 It is twenty-five feet up through the roof. (Top Rope)
  • For What It’s Worth- 5.4 A little extra flake will make this warm up exciting. (Top Rope)
  • Jeepers Creepers- 5.6 This route has a huge gap leads to a great overhang.  Worth it! (Top Rope)
The Little O.A. Crag- 5.3-5.6/V0 The best beginner and learning area at Logtown.
  • Boulder- 5.3 Boulder 20 foot up, and bring your crash pad.
  • Up the Down- 5.6 Go ahead and start at the right and duck under the broken rock. (Boulder Pad)
  • Running Man- V0 Boulderers can start in the center and head 6 feet up. An easy problem. (BoulderPad)
  • The Edge- V0 This is a smaller crimper problem that is easy to solve. (Boulder Pad)
Right Main Wall- 5.4-5.11b/V0 Lots of short sport routes make up this fun section.
  • Jesus in Tevas- 5.12c This route is a nice slabby climb in the middle of the cliff. (Sport)
  • Learning to Fly 11b Variation- 5.11b Climb past the mantle to the terrace, 40 feet up. (Sport)
  • Learning to Fly 10a Variation- 5.10a Use the bigger holds on this variation. (Sport/Top Rope option)
  • Covalent Bonding- 5.10a Traverse the ramp and climb the headwall. (Sport)
  • Coordinate Covalent Bonding- 5.11b Look for the right ledges on this route or your hands and feet may find themselves on some very thin ice. (Sport)
  • Boulder Problem- V0 This is a big eight foot boulder with a simple problem. (Crash Pad)
  • Boulder Problem- 5.8 Use your bouldering pad and make it 10 foot up. (Same route two different variations)
  • Nick of Time- 5.10d A tricky route that may take more than one try to conquer. Top Rope it first to ease the angst. (Sport/Top Rope)
  • Born Again Vulgarian- 5.4 A good chance to try a free climb, if you dare. (Top Rope) 
  • Dean Was Here- 5.11b This is a tough route with an nice overhang. (Top Rope)
  • Footloose and Finger Free- 5.9 Be ready to stretch and balance your way out of this one. (Sport)
Left Back Wall- 5.7-5.11a Three inviting top rope climbs make up this easy area.
  • Shining Night- 5.7 Keep right and watch your feet. (Top Rope)
  • Shining Night Variation- 5.11a Keep left and keep on watching those toes! (Top Rope)
  • Just for the Fun of It- 5.7 A short, muddy climb that is quite slippery when wet. (Top Rope)
Left Main Wall- 5.4-5.12c/V0 This is the old quarry where the stone was removed to build the Lisbon Courthouse.
  • The Traverse of the Gods- V0 Boulder around the pit.
  • Boulder Problem 2- V1 This problem is about 10 feet high, so bring your crash pad.
  • The Quest- 5.10a Use the foot ledge and get a good stance to make this one a little less painful. (Sport)
  • Scooby Doo- 5.11a Scooby Doo is one of the newer bolted routes in this area. (Sport)
  • Frodo Lives- 5.11a Frodo is a difficult route with a sketchy start.  The fourth clip may “clip” you up. (Sport)
  • Traverse in the Sky- 5.9 This V shaped chimney angles right and will prove to be a nice little challenge. (Top Rope)
  • Anxiety- 5.12c A long climb with a tricky mantle. (Sport)
  • Fractures- 5.4 Watch out for the loose rocks at the top of this 35 foot climb. (Top Rope)
  • Tendonitis- 5.12c Climb this one in the winter and you may regret it! (Sport)
  • Radical Mastectomy- 5.5 A rock fall formed this chimney and took out a lot of the jugs. Can you find any remaining ones? (Top Rope)
  • The Open Book/State of the Artless- 5.10d The toughest traditional climb at Logtown. (Traditional)
  • Open Book Variation- 5.11c The trump to the toughest traditional route at Logtown! (Traditional)
  • Captain Kirk- 5.9 Climb the lower wall to the ledge. (Boulder Pad)
  • Boulder Traverse- 5.7 This low line is a great warm up. (Top Rope)
  • Beam Me Up Scotty- 5.9 A fun climb with an easy heel hook and good height. (Sport)
  • Nicholas is a Weenie- 5.12a The first bolt clip on this route will prove to be the most difficult part.  Beware and be extremely careful. (Sport)
  • Slippery as an Eells- 5.8 Follow the left facing shallow flakes forty feet up. Lots of fun. (Top Rope) 
Middle Cliff- 5.3-5.11b This phenomenal artifact is an old sandstone quarry from the 1800’s.  These nice cliffs of sandstone leave the option for some bouldering opportunities, top rope climbs and lots of excitement. Be respectful of the homeowners who reside above the cliff.
  • Cave Traverse- V3 Start underneath like you are in a cave to solve this little problem. (Boulder Pad)
  • A Little Boulder Problem- V0 Start under the overhang and over the 30 foot block. (Boulder Pad)
  • Out Come The Freaks- V3 Hang out under this one a while. (Boulder Pad)
  • Waves in the Stone- 5.11a Through the mailbox and out the bulging wall to the overhang, you will find this send extremely exciting. (Top Rope)
  • Artists Only- 5.6 Thirty feet over the blocks and through the overhang, lots of fun. (Top Rope)
  • Superman’s Revenge- 5.10a This one leads out through another overhang.  Great top out. (Top Rope)
  • Astroboy- 5.8 A nice crack to climb up, especially good for beginners. (Top Rope) 
  • Shane’s Traverse- 5.8 This mid-height climb still has a lot to offer. (Top Rope)
  • Blast from the Past- 5.9 A nice bulge climb. (Top Rope)
  • Save the Wails- 5.5 This route starts with a really great overhang. (Top Rope)
  • Dick Rock Direct- 5.5 Yes, it looks like the name, but will be sure not to screw you over. Easy and fun. (Top Rope) 
  • Dick Rock Route- 5.4 The inside variation of the Dick Route Direct. (Top Rope)
  • My Green Jeans- 5.9 Another mailbox slot makes this forty foot climb lots of fun. (Top Rope)
  • Dog Job- 5.9 Here the inside corner and the roof crack will make this route unique. (Top Rope)
  • Dog Job Direct- 5.9 Start above Dog Job and traverse the ledge. (Top Rope)
  • Horn Traverse- 5.4 This arête horn will excite beginners and pros.  Short and sweet. (Top Rope)
  • Dynamic Momentum- 5.11a A great ramp, a tricky shelf and a decent bulge make this one a show stopper. (Top Rope) 
  • Follow the Folly- 5.6 This smooth wall leads to a spectacular cliff face. (Top Rope)
Amenities
Lock 30 Woodlands RV Park
45529 Middle Beaver Road
Lisbon, OH 44432
Phone- 330-424-9197
Tents, RV, Cabins, Lodging 
 
Directions
Just west of State Route 45 on State Route 30 you will come to Logtown Rd. Head down aprox. 3/4 miles and you will come to a pull off spot right after you pass the building. Cross the road and climb the hill at the drain pipe and walk up the paved bike path. Soon you will see a dirt path heading into the woods. Follow it to the top and you will see the climbing area.

 

GPS: 
Latitude: 40.775
Longitude: -80.7623