Paint Creek, Ohio (OH)

Location

Paint Creek, Ohio
United States
39° 15' 59.4" N, 83° 22' 42.6" W
US

The Paint Creek region lies at the very edge of the Appalachian Plateau. This escarpment marks the boundary between the hilly eastern section of the state and the flatter western portions. Most of the plateau in southeastern Ohio was never reached by glaciers, although the Paint Creek area bears evidence of glacial activity. One stream near the park, Rocky Fork Creek, was blocked by glacial ice and reversed direction, rapidly cutting the 75-foot gorge seen today.  Equally impressive here are the Seven Caves, all located about 50 feet above Rocky Fork Creek.  A short trip to the caves from the park is well worth the time, as well as the few limestone rock climbing opportunities here in the park that is owned and run by the Army Corps of Engineers.

Climbing Routes

Harmony Wall- 5.2-5.12b The Harmony Wall is located inside the dam area managed by the Army Corps of Engineers.

  • Lichen It- 5.10a This nice little climb has some bouldering options and lots of lichen ridden fingers holds. (Top Rope)
  • Ban the Bomb- 5.10a Difficult sequences and tricky holds make this a quite difficult route. (Top Rope)
  • Bearcat Chimney- 5.3 This is easier than it looks with a really nice crack. (Top Rope)
  • Buckeye Buttress- 5.10b Face climbing at its best with lots of great holds. (Top Rope)
  • Green Dragon- 5.10b Just get through the large roof and past the moss and you will send this climb like a pro. (Top Rope)
  • Gumby’s Gully- 5.2 Scramble up this easy, short, crack. (Top Rope/Free)
  • Harmony Crack- 5.4 This face climb with great cracks is fantastic for learning. (Top Rope)
  • Mail Slot Direct- 5.12a This light colored streak is inviting but much more of a challenge than you may think! (Top Rope)
  • Mail Slot Overhang- 5.11a Traverse left under the roof until you can surmount the roof up through the slot. (Top Rope)
  • Miami Wall- 5.6 This is a nice route with good holds for both hands and feet. (Top Rope)
  • Mickey Mantle- 5.9 Surmount the bulge and mantle up into the dihedral to gain a hand crack. (Top Rope)
  • Peacenik- 5.8 A nice climb that gets the blood flowing with a little pump as well as good finger and hand jamming for those learning crack climbing. (Top Rope)
  • Redhawk Arete- 5.10a The key to this difficult climb is finding the pocket and knowing how to use it. (Top Rope)
  • Route Beer- 5.9 A small crack climb with a great top out. (Top Rope)
  • Shruti- 5.12c Where the seam ends use small pockets, underclings, side pulls, and a thin crimp to work your way up through the small roof. (Top Rope)
  • Who Forgot The Jam- 5.5 Easy for small hands this is a great warm up. (Top Rope)

Amenities
Camping and Lodging
Paint Creek State Park
280 Taylor Road
Bainbridge, Ohio 45612
Phone: (866) 644-6727

Directions
Located at Paint Creek Lake between Greenefield and US 50 at the Army Corps of Engineers.

GPS: 
Latitude: 39.2665
Longitude: -83.3785