Sunset Park, Tennessee (TN)

Location

Sunset Park, Tennessee (TN)
United States
35° 26' 22.2" N, 84° 35' 29.76" W
US

An excerpt from the park Climbing Management Plan:

"A popular guidebook to rock climbing within Chickamaugua and Chattanooga National Military Park refers to the Sunset Rock area as the “birthplace" of sandstone climbing in the South. This same volume traces some of the early history of climbing in the park back to the 1940's. It further states that during the 1960's several climbers began developing routes on the cliffs of a limestone quarry on the northwest end of Lookout Mountain known as the Eagles Nest. Climbing then moved to the cliffs on the west side of the mountain around Sunset Rock. During the ‘70's that area received considerable attention as a large number of routes were developed. It was at Sunset Rock during the 1980's that local climbers achieved what was probably the first climb in the south rated at 5.12 (a very difficult climb). Use of motorized drills and installing bolts on routes also proliferated during the 1980's. In 1995 over 250 routes existed on the cliffs at and around Sunset Rock. Climber access to Sunset is tense! Because it is a national park, the cliff is shared by hikers and other users who come to remember the Civil War battle fought here. There is no guaranteed right to climb at Sunset, and any poor behavior by climbers has the potential of shutting down this fantastic crag."

Here are some basic guidelines for climbing at Sunset:

  • DO NOT SET UP TOPROPES FROM THE CLIFF TOP, especially in the overlook area. Sunset is a primarily traditional climbing area, so if you want to toprope a route, you must lead it first.
  • DO NOT BLOCK THE TRAIL. Keep ropes and any other climbing gear off the beaten path so others (especially non-climbers) can freely hike through.
  • KEEP NOISE LEVELS LOW. The cliff top at Sunset is a residential neighborhood, and keeping the residents happy is vital to retaining access. Refrain from loud shouting, use of obscenities or other disturbances; leave your boombox at home.
  • DOGS MUST BE KEPT ON LEASH. Better yet, don't bring your dog at all!
  • PARK ONLY IN AUTHORIZED AREAS. The Craven House parking lot midway up the mountain should be considered the primary place to park and hike in; the trail from this lot will bring you to the Sunset North section. Parking in the very small lot at the top trailhead is extremely limited; use of this lot is strongly discouraged. Do not park on the side of the roads at the top of the mountain under any circumstances!

Climbing Routes

Sunset North- 5.4-5.12b Mostly all Traditional climbing with a few opportunities for Aid.

  • A Sticht In Time- 5.10d
  • Bill's Route- 5.8
  • Dance of the..- 5.13c
  • Golden Ledges- 5.11a
  • R.J. Gold- 5.9
  • Stan's Crack- 5.8
  • Sunset..- 5.10d
  • Tantrum- 5.12b
  • The Cornerstone- 5.11a
  • The Prow- 5.11c
  • Broemel's Route- 5.8
  • Copperhead- 5.7
  • Lefthand Crack- 5.9
  • A Sense- 5.10a
  • Alpha Omega- 5.10b
  • Beginner's Route- 5.7
  • Bolt Pinacle- 5.11a
  • Broken Arrow- 5.10a
  • Bubble Bath- 5.10a
  • Complex Dexterities- 5.11a
  • Crazy Eights- 5.8
  • Dire Straights- 5.10c
  • Fault Line- 5.9
  • Flagstone- 5.11a
  • Flute Loops- 5.10a
  • Friday the 13th- 5.9
  • Ghost Dancers- 5.8
  • Green Hills-5.10a
  • Harassic Park- 5.9
  • Heavy Hands- 5.8
  • Horribulous Maximus- 5.10b
  • In the Corner- 5.6
  • Infidel Zombies- 5.9
  • Jams and Shams- 5.10b
  • Jefferson Airplane- 5.10a
  • Jennifer's World- 5.12a
  • Lefthand Crack- 5.9
  • Mineral Fright- 5.11c
  • More Fun with Dick- 5.9
  • Nuclear Blue- 5.10a
  • One-Ten- 5.6
  • Pagan Rites- 5.12a
  • Peace & Tranquility- 5.8
  • Prisoner of Zenda- 5.11b
  • Rattlesnake Route- 5.9
  • Righthand Crack- 5.7
  • Rusty's Crack- 5.10a
  • S'More- 5.8
  • Scream Wall- 5.10b
  • Slip Stream- 5.6

Sunset South- 5.6-5.12c Lots of roof cracks make this section really exciting. All traditional, and a great learning opportunity.

  • The View- 5.9
  • Airy Arete- 5.10b
  • Baby Cats- 5.11b
  • Black Magic- 5.10c
  • Blonde Ambition- 5.7
  • Deck Party- 5.11a
  • Idiot Savant- 5.12c
  • Liberty Bell- 5.9
  • Optical Delusion- 5.10b
  • Pete's Back- 5.10a
  • Pigs In Space- 5.10c
  • Second Sun- 5.9
  • Silent Runner- 5.10a
  • The Day After- 5.9
  • Train Time- 5.10a
  • Walk In The Park- 5.8
  • Windwalker- 5.9
  • Afternoon Delight- 5.7
  • Jugular Vein- 5.7
  • Airbrush- 5.6
  • Jugmania- 5.7
  • Sunset Sonata- 5.8
  • The Grim Reaper- 5.9
  • Afternoon Walk- 5.11a
  • Agrippa- 5.10c
  • Airbrush- 5.6
  • Anteater- 5.6
  • Back Street- 5.11a
  • Battle Above- 5.9
  • Confederate Arete- 5.10c
  • Crack a Smile- 5.8
  • Decoy Buckets- 5.9
  • Divinity Cracks- 5.9
  • Dodge City- 5.9
  • Dream Way- 5.8
  • Evening Flight Out- 5.7
  • Freedom Chimney- 5.7
  • Little Pearl- 5.7
  • Mercenary Territory- 5.8
  • NorthWest- 5.9
  • Pancake Flake- 5.9
  • Raiders of the Lost - 5.12b
  • Sinsophrenia- 5.10a
  • Space Flaps- 5.8
  • Squeeze Box - 5.8
  • Sudden Journey- 5.8
  • The Cobbler- 5.9
  • The day after- 5.9
  • Train Time Direct- 5.11d
  • Whistler's Mother- 5.10b

Camping
Lookout Mountain Flight Park
7201 Scenic Hwy
Rising Fawn, GA 30738
Phone- (706) 398-3433

Directions
Follow the innumerable signs to Ruby Falls on Lookout Mountain from I-24. Pass Ruby Falls on 148 and continue to the top of the mountain. Follow the road straight across the mountains top until you come to the softball fields. Bear to the right following West Brow Road, looking for a small paved parking area on the left about 1/2 mile from the ball field. There are 8 spaces available, 5 are unrestricted, 3 are one hour parking - you will be ticketed/towed. If no parking here, continue to Point Park and pay your $2 to enter. If there's still no parking, go to the Access Fund parking lot.

GPS: 
Latitude: 35.4395
Longitude: -84.5916