Warren County, Kentucky (KY)

Location

Warren County, Kentucky
United States
37° 8' 57.48" N, 86° 23' 11.4" W
US

Warren County, Kentucky is a dry, backwoods county seated upon Native American villages and burial mounds.  The land in this area is predominantly flat, so the striking boulders and climbs that are hidden among the farmlands and along the Gasper River are considered treasures to locals and sightseers alike.  This is a fun area to explore as all of the climbs are dispersed quite a bit apart and the majority of the land is privately owned.  Be careful, watch for no trespassing signs and if there is ever a doubt, you can contact the Kentucky Rock & Sports Trust, Inc. (KRST) and they will have the latest information. The climbs are short, pumpy, and mostly overhanging on limestone and sandstone. There are several cracks, but most of the rock is edgy or pocketed.  This is not a huge climbing area, but it is worth mentioning for those who like to explore uncharted territory.

Climbing Routes

  Clifty Hollow- 5.9-5.10a This crag lies on the side of the road and is just now being developed.  There is not a lot of detail and descriptions about the cliffs but they boast about 30 assorted routes, first established during the 80's on a solo top rope. Only a few lines are obvious, but chances are all lines have been climbed at one time or another.  The bluffs hold at least 70 established boulder problems of assorted grades along with a classic traverse that stretches about 200 feet.

  • Roses and Thorns- 5.10a
  • Copperhead- 5.10a
  • Zag- 5.9
  • Richard Longest- V5
  • The Last Dance- V3

Devil’s Sidesaddle- This area has the potential for several crack routes and bouldering problems. The sandstone reaches 50' high and access to the top provides plenty of top rope anchors. A mix of overhangs, faces, and cracks give ample opportunities for great climbing. Boulder formations would also create a great mix of problems. Get permission to try and traverse this area.   Riverview- An easy set of rocks to top rope, this sandstone rock sports a scary overhang with a few nice documented routes.  Be sure not to block the access road.

  • Willow’s Crack- 5.10b
  • Babe- 5.8

Amenities
Shanty Hollow Camping Camping is free and allowed, just pack everything out and leave the place a little cleaner than you found it. From the parking lot near the boat ramp, head right onto a four-wheeler track. Cliffs are about 1/2 mile back. Keep noise levels down.
Directions to Shanty Hollow- From Bowling Green, go north on Hwy. 185 approximately 10 miles. Take Hwy 1749 on right. Take right fork, after turning look for Shanty Hollow Road after about 2 miles.  

Hotels
Sleep Inn Hotel 1010 Wilkinson Trace Bowling Green, KY
Phone- 270-783-8569  

Directions
From Bowling Green, go west on 231 to Hadley, right on 626 at water tower. The first left past parkway onto Clifty Hollow Road. Bluffs are on left after 2 miles.

GPS: 
Latitude: 37.1493
Longitude: -86.3865