Whipps Ledges, Ohio (OH)

Location

Whipps Ledges, Ohio
United States
41° 13' 17.04" N, 81° 42' 32.4" W
US

On March 15 of every year, buzzards arrive in large flocks at the town, as if on a very exact biological clock. The town began celebrating the arrival of the birds in 1957, and today as many as 50,000 visitors visit the Hinckley Reservation in the town annually on "Buzzard Day" to witness the return of the avian residents. Hinckley is exactly five miles square but contains 1133 acres more than the conventional 16,000 acres, due to the hills and valleys and generally 'wrinkled' surface.  Some of these hills and valleys have formed Whipps Ledges, a nice little spot for some rock climbing and bouldering in Ohio. Be advised that permits are required! They are free with proof of $300,000 combined bodily injury and property damage insurance, and can be requested from:

Visitors Services Division
Cleveland Metroparks
Administative Offices
101 Fulton Parkway
Cleveland, OH 44114
Telephone- 216-351-6300

You can also contact Mike Barnhart (216) 351-6300, Ext. 264, with the Cleveland Metro Parks system or the Cleveland Zoo.  Camping is by permit only, and then only in designated areas.

Climbing Routes

Yellow Wall- V4-V5 These boulder climbs are just next to the iconic yellow wall.

  • Undercling Thing- V5 Awkward moves and shallow pockets will confuse you during this problem.
  • Yellow Wall- V4 Starting with an obvious jug, this problem seems quite easy initially, but may take a few tries to conquer.

Journey to The Sun- V5-V7

  • Ultimate Journey- V7 Finding the thin slot and sending the dyno will determine if you master this problem or not.
  • Journey to The Sun- V5 A good problem with a couple of spots that can cause some rough falls, be sure to bring your crash pad.

Beer Can Alley- 5.11/V2 Lots of glass, cans and trash in this area.

  • The Beercan Traverse- 5.11/V2 This is a great training route.

Island- 5.7-5.11/V2

  • The Island Traverse- 5.11a/V2 Parts of this route are always wet, so be cautious. It is noted as a great training boulder problem.
  • Double Overhang- 5.7 This is a fun route with easy set-up and multiple variables.
  • Dunes- 5.11a Be ready for a pumpy route that has some nice twists and turns at the boulder section. (Top Rope)
  • Scarpa- 5.10a Lots of strength will be needed for this climb. (Top Rope)

Skull- V0

  • Death’s Head- V0 This is a fragile boulder.  Climb at your own risk.

Main Wall- 5.4-5.12d/V5 There are lots of trees available to anchor on here.

  • The Main Wall Traverse- V5 A fun problem with lots of moves.
  • Burnout- 5.10a Use the crack to make this a more difficult route. (Top Rope)
  • Buzzard- 5.11b A short, fun route with a lot of sequences and clean lines. (Top Rope)
  • The Flake- 5.6 Start where you want to and then follow the crack.  Sequences vary but overall it is a nice challenging route. (Top Rope)
  • Grooves- 5.8 The big debate is on what the rating actually is on this route. (Top Rope)
  • Hinckley Crack- 5.7 A crack that is big enough to confuse you but not big enough to chimney, you will end up in more of a face climb by the end of this route. (Top Rope)
  • Key Hole- 5.4 One of those great chances to free solo.  Do it. (Top Rope/Solo)
  • Patagonia- 5.7 A nice and easy face climb. (Top Rope)
  • Sally & Don- 5.11a This route is noted to be a lot easier than the rating. (Top Rope)
  • Snoopy Right- 5.10a Take your time and this nice long route will seduce you. (Top Rope)
  • Snoopy Standard- 5.10d A little bit of a different start than Snoopy Right will challenge your strength. (Top Rope)
  • Forgotten- 5.12d This intriguing cave will invite you in but the boulder may swallow you whole. (Top Rope/Spotters)
  • When You Dance- 5.12a Dance is noted as the hardest route to send at Whipps Ledges. (Top Rope)

Sandy Ledges- 5.8-5.12a

  • The Arete- 5.10d A must do route with amazing lines. (Top Rope)
  • Phantom Fifth- 5.12a This route is the crux of Whipps.  It has not been defeated very many times. (Top Rope)
  • The Sandbox- 5.8 Try to tread this one right to left to increase the difficulty. (Top Rope)

Raccoon- V1+ A complex boulder problem that has not yet been defined.

Orgator- V0

  • Left- V0 Rocks here are usually wet, making the climb more complicated.
  • Right- V0  A little more difficult than Left.

Christ Died- 5.10c-5.11a This wall holds some amazing relics that will impress history buffs and savants alike. Markings are from the 1800’s.

  • Christ Died- 5.10c Start to the left of the crack and work it on up. (Top Rope)
  • Unknown- 5.11a Nice jugs and finger pockets help you make this one happen. (Top Rope)

Cripple Creek- V0

  • Cocaine Paradise- V0 Go right on this problem and then up.
  • Fragile Upset- V0 Go left on this one and then up.

Amenities

Camping is by permit only, and then only in designated areas.

Visitors Services Division
Cleveland Metroparks
Administative Offices
101 Fulton Parkway
Cleveland, OH 44114
Telephone- 216-351-6300

Hotels
Quality Inn
1435 S. Carpenter Road
Brunswick, Ohio
Phone- 330-273-1112

Directions
Interstate 271 & St. Rt. 94, take 94 north to St. Rt. 606. You will then see signs for Whipps Ledges.

GPS: 
Latitude: 41.2214
Longitude: -81.709